' LICKSTEIN'S 



G 



^ ■ ' SYSTEM 



PRACTICAL METHODS OF DESIGNING 
ACCORDING TO PROPORTIONS. 



^ 



^ p LADIES', MISSES' 

^^/^ AND CHILDREN'S 

^ \Jef'^% ^ GARMENTS V» 






By PH. GLICKSTEIN. 



190 9. 



The Reich Printing Co., 167 Rivington Street, 
NEW YORK. 







max (^Mm^ 



ij^aa rumplrteii tlif (Coursp of dlnatrurtion in 

?r.3rribpb in gjltc ^Hchtcin ^((signing School 

anb Ijafl paasri a BaliBfartoru pxaniinatinn anb ia thprffnrr berlarp& 
tn bp a graiiuatp nf aaiii SuatiUrtiflii. 

3)n ©Patimnny IBljprpnf 3 Ijaur lirrruutn affixfi mg Ijanii 
in the (Eitg nf Nmu ?ork. \\\\i<iUi'e^z^-...£ecc^ri€C- "bsi.^ of V-ff^n/. ffcf 




Reduced reproduction of diploma awarded 
to each student. 



OOPYRIGHi OFflO£ / ' 

sec 20 iQ< 



preface. 



ffl The numerous years of constant personal contact with my 
pupils; the close and studious observations I made of their 
requisites; the various and diverse inquiries by them made; 
the many years that I devoted, both, as designer and instruct- 
or; each and all of these facts have prompted and enabled 
me to produce this volume. 

ffl The vast amount of experience gained has taught me to 
formulate this publication in a manner most comprehensive 
to my pupils. That this book shall be both an aid and a 
guide to those that make themselves familiar v^^ith its contents 
is my aim. 

fl It is with these sincere motives in view that the following 
work is presented to the public. 

PHILIP GLICKSTEIN 
Author. 



New York, July, 1909. 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No 1. 



Fly front tight fitting Jacket. 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No. Z. 



French tight fitting Jacket in 10 gores with shawl collar 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No. 3. 



Hipless Jacket in 8 Gores. 

.D-i5<J 8 px D2\-i v^rati t:ypj;L"n 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No. 9. 

Box Coat. •t:i»<P Dp»<3 



10 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



lot 




DIAGRAM No. 5. 

Tight fitting Jacket in 11 gores. Full back. 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



11 




DIAGRAM No. 6. 



Corset jacket. This jacket has no allowance for seams 



12 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No. 7. 



French tight fitting jacket with full back. 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



13 




DIAGRAM No. 8. 



Hipless coat in 8 parts. French front. 



14 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No 9. 



Short tight fitting miHtary coat with full back. 



16 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No. 11. 



Long, tight fitting coat. 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



17 



■!-«* 



4P J* 



-AP* 




DIAGRAM No. 12. 



Long, hipless coat. 

.Da\n v^r\ii uisp lyjjs^ 



18 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




^1 ^ 



DIAGRAM No. 13. 

Eaton Jacket. .t2ypyt;'n istj'x 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTIiM 



19 



19 




DIAGRAM No. 14. 

Russian Blouse. .yn^a yL'"DDn 



20 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No. 15. 

Hipless coat with french back and 1 dott in the front 

.t::5<n3 px ONt i px pys ::'t23i;iD x d'JD dbm yjn{< oixp 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



21 



A-t 




■ ^--^., 



DIAGRAM No. 16. 



Long coat in 4 parts. 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No. 17. 

Tight fitting Jacket with 2 dots in the front. 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



23 




DIAGRAM No. 18. 



Ragalan, 



•ly'^NjyT 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



25 




DIAGRAM No. 20. 



Ladies' Prince Albert. 



26 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No. 21. 



Narrow Coat Sleeve. .ivSd t:ixp ly^xci*' 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



27 







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Tl 


^ 


i7i 


< 




t— ( 


l-H 


Q 


u 




Oh 




o 




■4-1 




V 




-xi 



D 

CO 



28 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No 23. 

Bishop Sleeve. 



30 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 





U^ 



ILM Ife i^^ \tk 



DIAGRAM No. 25. 

Storm collar in 6 pieces. MV^^nt: 6 |\s lyS^xp di^'^d 



^ 




4^^ 




DIAGRAM No 26. 

Storm collar in 4 pieces. -lyS^nt: 4 px lySSxp Di^t^D 




DIAGRAM No. 27. 

Standing collar. .-\vbbiip nyjn^ynyDL- 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



31 




DIAGRAM No. 28. 



Cape with a Dot. 



32 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No. 29. 

Cape without a dot. .usti wn^ stp 




DIAGRAM No. 30. 

System for a cape. .s'yp x 1^2 DyoD^D 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSl^EM 



33 




DIAGRAM No. 31. 
. Three Gore Skirt. .cn^'j 3 px t^Tipo 

MEASURMENTS. 

Waist, 25, Front Length, 41, Hips, 43, 

Side Length, 44, Back Length, 46. 

The same measurements apply to all the skirts. 



34 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



DIAGRAM No. 32. 
Five Gore Skirt. 




GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



35 



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> ~ - 


^^ 






~' 


/ />-^^v 














>• 








■j/ lO 


1/ 


/ 


//-, 5ST- 


/ 


/ 


1 


L 



/y 0/ 



DIAGRAM No. 33. 



Seven Gore Skirt. 



.^6 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No. 34. 

Nine Gore Skirt. 



G LI CKST KIN'S SYSTEM 



37 




DIAGRAM No. 35. 



Eleven Gore Skirt. 

.DIXJ 11 pX U-^^^pD 



38 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



'Ol?* 



,?/// « 



DIAGRAM No. 36. 



Nine Gore Corset Skirt. 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



39 




DIAGRAM No. 37. 
Thirteen Gore Skirt. 

.D-){<J 13 |\S Dl^ipD 



40 



GIJCKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



f^ 



DIAGRAM No. 38. 

Seventeen Gore Skirt. 

.D15<J 17 pS l2-\"\pD 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



41 




DIAGRAM No. 39. 

Empire Skirt. .on^ipD -i^^sjoy 




DIAGRAM No 40. 

Circle Skirt. l:-i"ipd Syp-i^iD 



42 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No. 41. 

Riding Skirt. .t^-i^ipo :r-i"-i 

MEASURMENTS. 

Waist, 24, Front Length, 40, Hips, 43, 

Side Length, 42, Back Length, 47. 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



43 




DIAGRAM No. 42. 
Miss' Size 16. i6 pd ,dd^» 

French hipless coat. Drafted according to 34 bust. Scale 17. 

.17 ^^ypD .DD^3 34 D^\b DJyj^Vyj .OIXp Dy^SNT C'DJyiQ 



44 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No. 43. 
Miss' Size 16. 16 p'D ,dd^q 

French front. Drafted according to 34 bust. Scale 17. 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



45 




DIAGRAM No. 44. 

Miss' tight fitting Jacket. Size 16. 

.16 VD .Dvpytj-'n isrtso's t2'"'t: 'dd'o 

Drafted according to 34 bust. Scale 17. 



46 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No. 45. 
Box coat. Size 8. .8 pd .mxp Dps3 

Drafted according to 30 bust. Scale 15. 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



47 




DIAGRAM No. 46. 

Children's Box Coat. Size 8. 

.8 r-'D .niNp Dps3 Djy-nyc^o 

Drafted according to 28 bust. Scale 14. 



48 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



fe::^ 




DIAGRAM No. 47. 

Children's box coat. Size 8. 

.8 VD .OIXp DpN2 D:y-n!5"'K'L3 



Drafted according to 28 bust. Scale 14. 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



49 




DIAGRAM No. 48. 

Children's Sleeve. Size 8. 

.8 r"'D .irSo Djy-i"i^"'L"'D 



50 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No. 49. 



Children's Sleeve. Size 12. 

.12 r^D Avbo Djy-n'^^L"o 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 



51 




DIAGRAM No. 50. 

Opera Coat. .dinp n-ij;2{< 



52 



GLICKSTEIN'S SYSTEM 




DIAGRAM No. 51. 
Hood. .nin 







-^ T T T T T t\ T 


r T T T \^ 







DIAGRAM No. 52. 

Legging. jrjjyb 



MEASUREMENTS 



REGULAR PROPORTION. 



LADICS i\ND MIS5£S 



Age 


Bust 


Waist 


Hips 


Length 
Waist 


Sleeve 


Cuff 

12 


12 


30 


22 


40 


14 


17 

iiW 


14 


32 


23 


41 

'42 


14^^ 


12>^ 
13 

13^ 

uy-z 


16 


34 


24 


15 

isy. 

15>^' 


18 
18 


18 

20 


36 

38 


25 
26 


43 

44 



CHILDREN'S A.ND INFANTS 



2 


22 

25 


22 
23 

24 


24 
26""" 


9 

10 


9 
10 
11 


9>^ 
10 

\^y 

11 

ll'^'2 

12 


4 
6 


28 


11 


8 


26^ 


25 


30 


12 


12 


10 

12 


28 

29 


26 

26;-^' 


32 


13 
14 


13 

14 


34 



LADIES' SKIRTS 



Waist 


Hips 


Front 


Side 


Back 


25 
26 


43 
44 


42 
42 


43 


44 


43 


44 


28 
30 


45 

46"""' 

48 


42 


43 


44 

44 

44 


42 

42 


43 

43 


32 



MISSES' SKIR.TS 



24 


43 


40 


41 


42 


23 


42 


40 
""'40 
40 

40 


41 


42 


22 


41 


41 


42 


21 


40 


41 

41 


42 


20 


39 


42 



INDEX 



PAGE 

Bishop Sleeve 28 

BoxCoat 9 

Box Coat (size 12) 46 

Box Coat (Children's, size 8) 47 

Children's Coat (size 8) 48 

Corset Jacket 11 

Circle Skirt 41 

Cape with a dot 31 

Cape without a dot 32 

Collar, Storm (6 pieces) , 30 

Collar, Storm (4 pieces) 30 

Collar, Standing 30 

Eaton Jacket 18 

Eleven gore Skirt 37 

Empire Skirt 41 

French Tight-Fitting Jacket (10 gores) 7 

French Tight-Fitting Jacket (Full Back) 12 

Fly-Front Tight-Fitting Jacket 6 

Five gore Skirt 34 

French Hipless Coat (Miss) 43 

Hipless Coat (Miss — French front) 44 

Hood 52 

Hipless Coat (8 gores) 8 

Hipless Coat (8 gores — French front) 13 

Hipless Coat, Long 17 



PAGE 

Hipless Coat (French back and dot in front) 20 

Long Tight-Fitting Coat 16 

Long Coat in four parts 21 

Legging 52 

Nine gore Sicirt .• 36 

Nine gore Corset Skirt 38 

Opera Coat 51 

Princess Gown 15 

Prince Albert 25 

Russian Blouse 19 

Riding Skirt 42 

Ragalan 23 

Ragalan Sleeve 24 

Sleeve, Narrow Coat 26 

Sleeve with wide top or head 27 

Sleeve, Wide (with cuff) 29 

System for a Cape 32 

Seven gore Skirt 35 

Seventeen gore Skirt 40 

Sleeve, Children's (size 8) 49 

Sleeve, Children's (size 12) 50 

Tight-Fitting Jacket (11 gores) 10 

Tight-Fitting Military Jacket (Short) 14 

Tight-Fitting Jacket (2 dots in front) 22 

Three gore Skirt 33 

Thirteen gore Skirt 39 

Tight-Fitting Jacket (Miss) 48 



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